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Exploring the interaction of color and pattern with deflected double weave.

2/13/2022

 
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I stumbled across deflected double weave (DDW henceforth) pretty early on in my weaving journey, as more and more images of these intriguing interlocking patterns started popping up in all the usual places and then, after the publication of Marian Stubenitsky's Double with a Twist, even more. I think I first spotted Natalie Drummond's gorgeous color work with DDW on Pinterest, and loved how her color use interacted with the patterns. Mostly I had seen two or maybe three colours being used, creating stunning geometric patterns which are equally striking, but I was fascinated by the possibilities of more.
During COVID in 2021 my local Guild invited Natalie to do an online class so I jumped on it. Natalie provided a couple of drafts and her great eye on choosing two different Tencel painted warps created by the wonderful Blazing Shuttles.  It was suggested we use a lightweight wool to balance the Tencel and have the opportunity to explore the varying levels of shrinkage provide by the two fibres.  I choose teal, a turquoise shade of Zephyr, from Jagger Spun.
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A little bit of technical stuff …
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Deflected double weave is a magical structure that appears to be far more complex and intricate than it actually is.  Many permutations can be achieved with a simple two block threading on four shafts, with each pattern block using two shafts. Shown here are all the block options, front as woven on the left:
​All the drafts shown are drawn showing a rising shaft action.
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This is just using three colours. Imagine the possibilities with more in both warp and weft, and instead of four shafts, eight, giving four pattern blocks!

Rosepath is a traditional Swedish threading - the typical threading is shown below, front and back:
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If each single thread is replaced by groups of 4, threaded on shafts 1+2, 3+4, 5+6, 7+8, deflected double weave can be woven, front side of the cloth shown on the left with a tie-up for treadles and on the right the backside showing a lift-plan:
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You can see that threading the colours the same as for the regular Rosepath gives you a sense of the diamond pattern but it is blurred. If the two colours are separated out into the threading blocks, and mirrored in the weft, the pattern reappears, but on a much larger scale - again the front as woven is on the left:
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From here, colours can be switched out to highlight different parts of the pattern and it becomes clearer how the two sides differ:
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